Saturday, June 6, 2009

Curitiba (Coo-reh-tee-bah) - A Model City (click on title to see video about Curitiba)




Curitiba, in the State of Parana, is definitely a must-see when traveling to Southern Brasil. It is the city we fly into when traveling from the US, as it's airport is easy to navigate, and it is only a little over an hour's drive away from our family in Santa Catarina, the next state south of Parana. On my very first trip to Brasil, in 2003, we stayed in Curitiba for a couple of days to sightsee. It was fabulous. The city is very clean, especially the Batel district (financial district). Huge skyscrapers are abundant, and the architecture in this city is not to be believed. I'll just touch on a couple of my most memorable experiences, as there is not enough room on this page to tell you everything I love about this city.

Serra Verde Express - This is a train ride that begins in Curitiba, goes up into the mountains, stops in the picturesque city of Morretes for lunch, and ends at the seaside town of Antonina. At this point, you can either return to Curitiba via train, or for added pleasure, you can get off the train in Antonina, and take a bus ride back through the protected mountain range to Curitiba on the Graciosa Road. We did the latter. Good choice. The views are absolutely breathtaking, the small towns are inviting, and the whole experience is not to be missed. If you'd like to check it out further, you can either google Serra Verde Express, or go to You Tube and type in Serra Verde Express (highlights) and watch the video. At today's exchange rate, the entire trip, which takes most of the day, costs around $120 US.

Oscar Niemeyer Art Museum - Spectacular building and grounds. The main building is built as a giant eye. Once in the main room, you can look out from the eye over the surrounding area. The exhibits are fantastic, especially the modern art and sculptures. There is a tunnel that leads from the outside into the belly of the main gallery that is fun to walk through...it is all white with skylights along the edges. Niemeyer was famous for his use of concrete in creating his buildings. You don't want to miss this Museum.

The shopping is fabulous, the food--goes without saying, and although I've never gone to Curitiba in the warmer months, I understand the beaches are gorgeous, especially Ilha do Mel (Honey Island). Hotel accommodations range from ordinary to spectacular. We were fortunate enough on our first trip to stay in a 4 star hotel for less than $40 a night, due to the fact that the exchange rate was above 3 to 1. We felt like royalty. Although the exchange rate today is less than 2 to 1, I don't know where else you could stay in a large city in a 4 or 5 star hotel for less than $150, and in most cases, closer to $100 a night.

So that is Curitiba. Don't know what I'll write about next--possibly fashion. Women in Brasil--women of any age--dress very sexy, and are so much less self-conscious of themselves than in the US, at least from my perspective. Stay tuned.

Till then, Tchau!

Friday, June 5, 2009

Brasilian Eating Habits

This is a loaded hamburger
consisting of: beef patty, slice
of ham, slice of cheese, bacon,
fried egg, lettuce, tomato,
potato salad (not kidding),
shoestring potatoes (not kidding),
and corn (again, not kidding). Oh, heck, I'm not kidding about any of it.

Brasilians eat a little differently from Americans. This hamburger is a good example. I did choose an all-the-way burger to prove a point. Usually, a regular x-salada (cheeseburger) has only a hamburger patty, slice of ham, slice of cheese, tomato, lettuce, and shoestring potatoes. But basically, the more stuff you can load onto a hamburger bun, the happier the Brasilian. Also, they like their sandwich bun to be finished on a hot press or grill, so every eatery will have one. Another famous sandwich is the Misto Quente (mee-stow ken-tay), which is basically a grilled ham and cheese. A misto is served without any extras, just plain. Don't try and figure it out, you won't be able to.


Brasilians love fried potatoes--batata fritas--and potato sticks--batata palha. I don't recall ever having a meal anywhere where one or both of these aren't served. It is rare to see mashed potatoes or hash browns, but french fries rule in Brasil.


Another interesting eating habit of Brasilians is that they take their drinks in small portions. Usually, a group of people will order a 2-litre bottle of Coke or Guarana (a soda with the herb guarana mixed in) and small glasses. They will take only enough of the drink to take a few sips at a time. They never fill their glasses to the top. Many drink beer the same way. The beer bottles in Brasil are much larger than in the US, so it is typical to order one beer at a time and the table shares that bottle. When it is empty, they order another. Always sharing.


Speaking of sharing, Brasilians share plates of meat at most get-togethers. At a barbeque, for instance, the cook will start grilling sausage, and then progresses to chicken and steak. During the whole cooking process, whatever meat is ready at the time, is placed on a wooden cutting board or platter and bite-size portions are served with toothpicks. The yucca powder I mentioned in an earlier post is served on the platter for dipping. When the chicken and/or steak is ready, it is cut in bite-size pieces and served the same way. Once the initial ritual of eating the meat from the tray is finished, accompanied by much beer and conversation, then the group will sit down to a table filled with side dishes and more meat. It is a wonderful, long process that can take the better part of an afternoon. Come with an appetite though, because about an hour or two after the main meal, dessert dishes come out with coffee and more little finger foods. These folks really know how to eat.


Hygiene is very important to Brasilians as well. When entering a restaurant after a long trip in a car, they will immediately go to the restroom and wash their hands. Some older Brasilian ladies carry washcloths in their purses to wash up before a meal. And after a meal, it is not uncommon to see women in the restroom brushing their teeth. I remember my first trip to Brasil on the airplane. Upon waking up after the overnight flight, breakfast was about to be served. When we first boarded the plane, we were given a pack of goodies, including an eye mask, slippers, and toothbrush with small tube of toothpaste. I thought it odd. Well, imagine my surprise when after breakfast, there was actually a line to all the restrooms on the plane. Every one of those waiting had that little travel toothbrush and toothpaste in hand, awaiting their turn to "freshen up."


These are things I remember about Brasil that endear me to the people. I hope you enjoy these stories, because I will continue remembering through this blog.


Till then, ciao!